Not far from Loches is Montrésor, in a lovely setting beside the little Indrois river. Its château dates from the 10th century and within the medieval walls is a late 15th century manor house, beautifully restored and furnished by the owners. Further on is Valençay, well worth the drive to see the magnificent classical Renaissance château there with its great domed towers. The furnishings inside are mostly Louis XVI and Empire with many beautiful object d'art and peacocks, black swans, sheep and deer wander freely around the park and gardens.

The old town in Tours is a maze of narrow streets and ancient houses, new shops and lively bars and restaurants. There is a wine museum in the cellars of St Julien, a modern stained glass museum and a Fine Arts museum in the elegant Bishop's Palace, stuffed with treasures. Not far from Tour is the great Château de Chenonceaux, built weightlessly across the river Cher with gardens laid out by Catherine de Médicis.

Quietly hidden away at the end of a secluded valley, the splendid late Renaissance Château du Gué-Péan is worth a detour. Still being restored by its enthusiastic owners, the rooms are an amazing mixture of antique jumble, from Sicilian puppets to Talleyrand's gigantic waistcoat and copies of de Gaulle's Will. Just as attractive is the friendly, rather chaotic family atmosphere.